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Trekking In Upper Dolpo And Shey Gompa (27
days) |
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Ba-Yul, the hidden land of Dolpo, was first
settled by Rokpa farmers and Drokpa nomads
from Tibet in the 10th century. It is one of
the highest inhabited places on earth, with
scattered fortress-like villages and
monasteries nestling amongst mountains of
stark, ascetic beauty. Though part of Nepal
today, Dolpo remains culturally and
economically firmly tied to Tibet, the
people of this desolate area are cut of from
their southern neighbours by snow-covered
passes for much of the year. This is
fascinating and difficult country to travel
in.
Most of Dolpi is protected by Shey Phoksumdo
National Park. It is bounded in the east and
south by Dhaulagiri and Churen Himal ranges
and in the west by the Jumla district. Dolpo
has been bypassed by development and until
recently by tourism. Although a few
Anthropologists and geographers had explored
the region, the entire district was closed
of to foreigners until 1989, when southern
parts of Dolpo was opened to organised
trekking groups.
Peter Matthiessen's The snow leopard and
David Snellgrove's Himalayan Pilgrimage have
contributed to the mystique and attraction
of Dolpo. Both writers visited the Shey
Gompa, to the north of the Phoksumdo lake,
in inner Dolpo. This is the goal of most
trekkers but this Dolpo trek will take you
even further into this mysterious land.
Dolpo is Bon-pro country, where people
practice a shamanistic religion predating
Tibetan Buddhism.
Much of Bon-po symbolism is the opposite of
Buddhist practice. You should walk to the
right of ancient mud chortens, which are
inscribed with swastikas with their arms
pointing in the opposite direction to the
Buddhist chant of "om mani padme hum", the
Bon-pos chant 'om ma tri mu ye sa le du", in
Tibetan means "in clarity unite'.
Phoksumdo Lake
The lake is spectacular, it is 4.8km long,
1.8km wide and said to be 650m deep. It is
known for its aquamarine color a greenish
blue similar to a special Tibetan turquoise
.There is no aquatic life in the lake, which
helps to make the waters brilliantly clear.
If you toss a rock in, you can watch it for
a long time as it sinks to the bottom.
According to legend, Phoksumdo Lake was
formed by a spiteful female demon.
In Buddhist Himalaya, David Snellgrove
recounts how the demon was fleeing from the
saint Padmasambhava and gave the village
people a turquoise after they promised not
to tell that she had passed by.
Padmasambhava turned the turquoise into a
lump of dung, which upset the local people
so much they revealed the demon's
whereabouts. She, in return caused a flood.
It is said you can see the remains of a
village below the lake's
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Facts of The Trekking |
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Trip length: 27 Days
Grade: Strenuous
Starts in: Kathmandu
Ends in: Kathmandu
Accommodation: Hotel & camping
Transportation: 3 flights transfer
Maximum altitude: 5460m |
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Itinerary of Upper Dolpo Trek in
Detail |
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Days 01 :
Arrival in Kathmandu
Flying to Kathmandu along the northern border of
Nepal on a clear day is in itself an exciting and
memorable experience as exotic panoramic view of
snow-capped Annapurna mountain range peaks sprawls
before you. The Nepali support team will meet you at
the airport and escort you to your hotel. |
Day 02 :
Sightseeing of Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu, being a historical and cultural heart of
Nepal, is a popular destination for tourists,
trekkers and adventure seekers. The city presents a
wonderful mixture of Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism and
Western influence in the Valley. Patan and Bhaktapur
are its two major neighboring cities which bear
immense historical, cultural and religious
significance. There will be a half day guided tour
to the famous & biggest Hindu shrine PASUPATHINATH,
the largest Buddhist stupa in town BOUDHANATH, the
15th century palace of 55 windows and SOYAMBHUNATH.
In the evening, a trip orientation meeting will be
organized. |
Day 03 :
Fly to Nepalganj
We fly from Kathmandu to Nepalganj in the southwest
part of the Terai, right on the border to India.
After checking into our hotel we might go and have a
look at the Bageshwari Mandir, a temple to honour
Kali. But what Nepalganj is all about is just
wandering around in the bazaar, which has everything
on sale that one could imagine. We will see people
here from every part of Nepal, people from Tibet and
India; they all come here to trade.
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Day 04 :
Fly to Juphal, Trek to Dunai
We go to the airport very early in order to get on
the flight to Juphal. Dolpo flights are always early
in the morning. This is because high winds in the
Thulo Bheri Valley begin around 10 am, making later
flights impossible. Once we have gotten all our
equipment of the Twin otter in Juphal (2500m), we
start out on the short walk from Juphal to Dunai. We
walk downhill through meadows and past a few houses
to the small hotels at Kala
Gaura (2090m). From here we follow the river trail
upstream to Dunai. We camp near Dunai and explore
this bustling little hill town for the rest of the
afternoon.
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Day 05 :
Trek to Chepka
6-7 hours, 770m ascent
We start trekking from Dunai, cross the big steel
suspension bridge and turn west, following the trail
past the hospital, and then it's a level walk along
the bank of the Thulo Bheri to its confluence with
the Suli Gaad at 2070m. We follow the new trail
north up the east bank of the Suli Gaad to a
collection of teashops run by the wives of army
personnel in Dunai. Another hour of walking takes us
to Kal Rupi and then on to Raktang (2260m). We cross
to the west bank and trek past numerous goths and
horses pastures over a ridge to the rough stone
houses of Jyalhasa, a wintering spot for the people
of Ringmo. We keep walking upstream to another
bridge, cross it to the east bank, and make our way
past some crude teashops and a bridge over a side
stream, the Ankhe Khola, at 2460m. The trail makes
some ups and downs through grass and ferns to a
trail junction. The fork is the old trail leading to
the army and national park post at Ankhe, and on to
the old trail that passes the villages of Rahagoan
and Parela, high on the ridge above.
These three villages a strange name connection:
Parela (parela means eye-lashes), Rahagoan (raha
means eyebrow) and Ankhe (ankha is eye).
The trail Phoksumdo Lake climbs over a ridge at
2710m, then descends on a rocky path to Chepka
(2670m), which is inhabited by three brothers and
consists of collection of interconnected shops,
rakshi stalls and lodges. We camp here or at another
good spot beside a huge rock in walnut grove about
20 minutes beyond Chepka.
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Day 06 :
Trek to Renje
5-6hours, 500m ascent, 320m descent
We continue on the new trail, which stays near the
river, climbing over a small ridge ,then crossing to
the west side to avoid a large ridge and returning
to the east side an hour later near a national park
camping ground. Alongside the river at 2900m, the
trail becomes a collection of rocks and sticks
forming a dyke along the river bank. The trail makes
several more ups and downs through forests of firs
and larches as it continues upstream to a bridge
that leads to nine houses comprising the village of
Renje on the opposite side of the river at 3010m. We
camp at a good camp site here or another about five
minutes further on.
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Day 07 :
Trek to Ringmo
6-7 hours, 880m ascent, 90m descent
We follow the Suli Gaad valley, which turns eastward
and becomes even steeper and narrower. We then climb
over a ridge and descends to a wooden bridge then
continue along the ups and downs along the valley
floor to the confluence of the Suli Gaad with the
Pungmo Khola. From here the trail to Phoiksumdo Lake
and Shey gompa follows the west bank of the river.
We climb through a forest of big cedar to a good
camp site and then on to Palam (3710m), a winter
settlement used by the people of Ringmo village. The
houses are almost burried in the sandy soil. The
entrance station for Shey Phoksumdo National Park is
at the south end of the village. After our park
entrance ticket is examined, we may be subjected to
a baggage inspection-ostensibly for drugs and stolen
art objects. It's very peculiar formality in this
remote locale.
We continue on the route, which switchbacks steeply
on a sandy trail through open country to an
elevation of 3300m, then we start up another steep
set of dusty switchbacks to a ridge at 3780m. From
the ridge there are distant views of a spectacular
200m -high waterfall, the highest in Nepal. The
trail makes a steep descent in birch forests to the
upper reaches of the brilliantly clear, rushing
waters of the Phoksumdo Khola, then we climb gently
to Ringmo village, a picturesque settlement of
flat-roofed stone houses with lots of mud -plastered
chortens and maniwalls. Just below Ringmo, we cross
a bridge and follow a trail north to the ranger
station at Phoksumdo Lake (3730). We continue to the
shores of the lake near the point where the
Phoksumdo Khola flows out of the lake. There are
national park camping grounds on both sides of the
river on the south-east shore of the lake. Park
rules prohibit us from camping in other places
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Day 08 :
Rest and exploration
A trail leads from the lakeside through juniper
trees to the white Pal Sentan Thasoon Chholing gompa,
a ramshackle Bon-po gompa overlooking the lake that
is said have been built 60 generations ago. There
are five other private gompas in various houses of
small monastic community near the lake. The insides
of the temples contain dusty Buddhist paintings and
statues, but the trappings also reflect the
animistic elements of the Bon-po religion, so some
of the chapels are reminiscent of an ancient witch's
cavern. A donation to the ragtag collection of dirty
monks will gain us entrance to the gompas; our
sherpas will be equally fascinated by the strange
iconography and practice of the Bon-po religion.
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Day 09 :
Trek to Chunemba
5-6 hours, 570m ascent, 560m descent
From our camp site near Ringmo on the southern end
of Phoksumdo Lake, the trail contours on a rocky
ledge as it skirts the western lip of the lake. In
places it's precariously suspended on a gangway of
wood supported on pegs driven into crevices in the
rocks. As we cross a stream, look up at the glacier
descending from the upper slopes of Kanjeralwa
(6612m). We then climb to a crest at 4060m for a
spectacular view of the lake with the snowy peaks of
Sonam Kang in the background. The trail makes a step
and dusty descent through birches and blue pines to
the westernmost edge of the lake at 3630m where the
Phoksumdo Khola enters. The route now heads west up
a long a wide valley. We follow an indistinct trail
through thorn bushes and scrub trees, crisscrossing
boggy marshes and tributaries of Phoksumdo Khola. We
camp in a forest of blue pines at Chunemba, an
undeveloped national park camping ground at 3630m.
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Day 10 :
Trek to Lar Tsa
4-5½ hours, 570m ascent, 80m descent
We begin the day along the level path that now heads
north through a glacial valley. We then cross to the
east bank of Phoksumdo Khola. We follow the main
valley for another hour to kang Gompa. We climb
steeply from Kang Gompa and stay on the grassy
ridge. It's a long climb up the ridge past a few
groves of birch trees. There are spectacular
mountain views with Shey Shikar (6139m) and Kang
Chunne (6443m) dominating the skyline to the west.
We continue on a crest at 4200m then the route
descends gently on a rocky trail to Lar Tsa, a camp
site besides the river at 4120m.
It's possible to continue walking, but we have now
ascended more than 500m in a day and should spend
the night at Lar tsa for acclimatisation.
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Day 11 :
Trek to Mendok Din
2-3 hours, 520m ascent, 130m descent
We cross a new bridge and climb to the top of a
scree slope at 4490m, then make our way up a grassy
ridge to a crest at 4640m. We contour and then drop
gently into Mendok Ding (flower valley). We again
climb alongside a stream to a campsite at 4610m. You
are almost certain to a spot herds of blue sheep on
the slopes above the camp. |
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Day 12 :
Trek to Shey Gompa
7-8½ hours, 1040m ascent, 1240 descent
We continue on the route that follows the upper
reaches of the Phoksumdo Khola, then we turn north
towards the peak of Riwo Drugdra (Crystal Mountain).
There is a choice of trails here, we follow the more
scenic pilgrim route across the Sehu La to the west
of Crystal Mountain, making a kora (circumambullation)
of this sacred peak. The Dolma trail turns north
soon after camp while the pilgrim trail starts up a
steep scree slope on the opposite side of a stream
that flows from the north.
After a long pull to Sehu La (also known as Mendok
Ding La) at 5160m the trail descends a scree slope
to a grassy meadow besides a stream valley and
begins a series of long ascents and descends across
ridges in and out of side valleys as it traverses
around
Crystal Mountain. After a steep, rough climb to a
crest at 5010m and another at 4860m, we begin the
descent to the Tar valley. Soon after the route
reaches grassy slopes a side trail leads to Tsakang,
a gompa said to be 800years that is perched
dramatically on the side of a cliff. The final
descent is on a wide trail to a campsite in a large
meadow near a few nomads huts at 4310, just below
Shey gompa.
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Day 13 :
Rest-Exploration
Cross the river on a log bridge and climb past a big
chorten and a huge field of manistones to the Shey
gompa compound at 4390m. The gompa itself is not
large ,and there are no artifacts or paintings of
note inside. Although the building is said to be
800years old, the wall paintings are relatively
recent, probably done in 1970s. The statues on the
altar are of Guru Rimpoche, Sakyamuni and Milarepa.
The gompa also houses an ancient Tibetan scroll that
describes the myth of Crystal Mountain and Shey
gompa. According to the inscription, there is a holy
lake in a crater among the mountains that surrounds
Shey. When a pilgrim makes nine circumambulations of
this lake the water turns milk. A sip of this milk,
and the pilgrim can se Mt Kailash in the distance.
So for those who doesn't need the day for rest, we
will go and try to find this lake.
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Day 14 :
Trek to Namgung
6-7½ hours, 1029m ascent, 900m descent
We trek east from Shey gompa and across the 5010m
Shey La. Here we turn north and descend before
climbing again to Namgung (4430m). |
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Day 15 :
Trek to Karang
5-6 hours, 150m ascent, 530m descent
We traverse high above the Namgung Kola to Karang
(4050m). It's also possible to descend to Saldang on
the banks of the river, but this village holds
little of interest.
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Day 16 :
Trek to Mugaon
6-7½ hours, 490m ascent, 550m descent
We descend to Torak Sumdo (3670m), the confluence of
the Namgung and Polang kholas, and cross to the
northern bank. We then climb to Yanger gompa at
3750m and trek along the river side valley. We camp
at one of the camp sites alongside the stream at
about 4100m before Mugaon. |
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Day 17 :
Trek to Shimen
7-8½ hours, 1040 m ascent, 890m descent
We continue up the valley to Mugaon and climb
towards the Mushi La at 5030m. Then we descend
towards Shimen village, we end the day at a good
camp site in pastures above the village at 4010m. |
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Day 18 :
Trek to Tinje
7-8 hours, 550m ascent, 170m descent
We drop down to Shimen village at 3870m and make a
long trek upriver through Pha (4090m) to Tinje
(4150m).
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Day 19 :
Trek to Rakpa
7-8 hours ,550m ascent, 170m descent
We trek past the runway of mysterious Tinje airport
to a trail junction at 4130m, where a high route
leads to Tarap. We continue southward to a camp site
on the banks of the river at Rakpa (4530m).
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Day 20 :
Trek to Chharka
7-8 hours, 490m ascent, 900m descent
We begin our day with a long climb to the Chharka La
(4920m). We continue on the trail descending along
the side of the valley, then make a big drop into a
side valley at 4290m. We then make a long traverse
down to the picturesque village of Chharka on the
banks of Barbung Kola at 4120m. |
Day 21 :
Trek to Norbulung
6-7 hours, 820m ascent, 190m descent
Another Climb to acrest at 4380m begins this day. We
then descend again to a river. We follow the right
fork southward, climbing in and out of side valleys
on a rough trail. The valley narrows, we then emerge
into a big meadow and climb to our campsite at
Norbulung (4750m). |
Day 22 :
Sangda Phedi
7-8 hours, 790m ascent, 440m descent
We begin the day climbing to a yak pasture at Molum
Sumna (4860m) and on to a crest at 5130m. We then
make a long traverse across meadows to the foot of
the Sangda La, then a long, steep final climb to the
pass at 5460m. Swirchbacks down to our camp site by
a stream at 5100m.
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Day 23 :
Trek to Sangda
7-8 hours, 460m ascent, 1860m descent
We climb to a lower Sangda La at 4990m, then descend
through loose shale towards the village of Sangda
Ghunsa (4190m). We drop to the Chalung Khola,
crossing it at 3750m, and then climb steeply up the
opposite bank. A long high traverse leads to a cairn
at 4090m, we then come to a set of steep switchbacks
descends to a stream at 3580m. We do another climb
to the compact settlement of Sangda, were we end a
long day at 3700m.
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Day 24 :
Trek to Dhagarjun
7-8 hours, 970m ascent, 1380m descent
We climb the hill behind Sangda and spent most of
the day making a high traverse, crossing nine ridges
to a final crest at 4280m. We then descend into the
Kali Gandaki valley, traversing under high cliffs
and descending to the large village of Dhagarjun
(3290m). |
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Trek to Jhomson, fly to Pokhara
3hours, 870m ascent, 690m descent
We climb to a ridge at 3360m and make a final
descent on a challenging trail of loose rocks to
Jomsom at 2670m. We take an early flight from Jomsom
to Pokhara - a fantastic way to round off the trek,
flying right along the Kali Gandaki Gorge between
the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. In Pokhara we
check into the Hotel, get the dust of the last three
weeks washed off and head out for a nice dinner..!
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Day 26 :
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Drive/Fly Kathmandu
We take the 35 minute flight to Kathmandu or the six
hour drive, it all up to you. |
Day 27 :
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Depart Kathmandu
Our the Nepalese support team will take you to the
airport for your flight home. (Or stay longer for
short tours such as game drive at National parks,
rafting, Tibet tours, mountain biking etc). |
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