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Ama Dablam Expedition

Everest Expedition

Everest Expedition Tibet

Pumori Expedition

General Info

Mountaineering Rules

Permission Procedure

NMA Trekking Peaks

List of Identified Peaks

Downloadable Forms

Peaks Opened

 
 

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General Info - Mountaineering in Nepal

* Fitness & training
* Our Expedition Service
* Meals & Logistic
* Climbing seasons
* Environmental Consideration
* Medical supply / safety measures
* Rescue/ Emergency Evacuation
* Insurance
* Cost of the Trips
* Meeting and airport transfers
* Accommodation in Kathmandu
* Booking/Payment/ Disclaimer
* Filming expedition
* Communication equipments
* Garbage management
* Import/export of expedition goods
* Baggage allowance & ferry charge
* Summit bonus
* Reserving a climbing sherpa
* Ice fall route (everest & lhotse only)
* Liaison officer
* Multiple permits
* Expedition briefing
* Debriefing
* Changing of members
* Support group

Fitness & training
All expedition peaks are extremely demanding; requiring lots of willpower, tolerance of harsh conditions. You will need to be in excellent physical condition, be physically and mentally prepared to deal with strenuous situations at high altitudes. You are required to have past rock and steep snow climbing experience on exposed terrain and must be familiar with modern climbing techniques.

In order to build self confidence and develop experience on high altitude climbs we recommend that you gradually climb higher and higher peaks and have climbing experience at altitudes over 6,000m before attempting the world's highest peaks. Work on good aerobic fitness months before your expedition or make yourself up and down hill walking 1 hour a day. The fitter you have been over the past several years, the better your chances.

Alliance Treks also offers climbing course in conjunction with certified instructor which enable participants to develop high altitude experience and climbing skill. Please visit 'climbing course' section for more information.

Our Expedition Service
We have run 90 successful expeditions to 8000meter peaks in Nepal & Tibet either as a local operator for many top overseas companies or as a sole operator since our establishment in 1992.

We offer several different approaches:
1. Customized service for a private team,
2. Western guide-assisted climbs on fixed group departure dates,
3. Sherpa guide-assisted climbs,
4. Base camp only support and
5. 'Permit only' sharing service.

Our customized service for your private team is tailored to suit your exact requirements. We offer service of our expert Sherpa climbing guide, high altitude cook and other assistants as per your requirements. We arrange customs in Nepal, obtain permit from government, carry out all the necessary expedition logistics, book flight, hotel, arrange transportations etc.

Our expedition consultants who has climbed many 6000m peaks and has summitted 8000m peaks several times including Mt. Everest. They have proved to be a capable, caring organizer and very strong at altitude. We also organize climbs in conjunction with several other certified western guides on fixed group departure date. The expedition is supported by expert high Sherpa climbing guide, cook and porters, all meals are provided. Our administration team from office carry out all expedition logistics. This option of service is available on fixed departure dates, please check '2006/07 fixed departure' section for availability.

Sherpa guide-assisted service is led by our Sherpa climbers who have created history in 8000 meter peaks climbing. The team in this service option is fully supported by assistant Sherpas, cooks, porters and all meals provided. All expedition logistics are done by our administration team from office.

Base camp support expedition
In this service option we provide cook, kitchen staff, kitchen, food and base camp/ABC tents for you at base camp and advanced base camp through out expedition period. This service is usually suitable for the team who does not require support during climb. In this service option you can also share expedition permit with available group. Please check us out for the availability.

Permit only service: If wish to relay on yourself for meals and climbing support, you can buy your share on expedition permit only. We can help you get your name listed on the expedition permit of then available group for a reasonable fee.

Meals & Logistic arrangement on our full supported climb
We provide three tasty, plentiful and nutritious meals daily with a variety of local and Western dishes. To start the day, breakfast consists of a choice of porridge, muesli and cereal followed by omelet, fried or scrambled eggs with chapattis or bread. Lunch is generally a selection of salad, cooked vegetable dishes, pasta and traditional breads. Dinner is a hearty 3 course meal - soup, followed by a variety of vegetable, meat, rice and pasta dishes and completed with a simple dessert. Tea, coffee and hot chocolate are also provided at all meals. We use as much fresh produce as possible and special diets are regularly catered for. The leaders are able to maintain very tight controls on health and hygiene in the kitchen with respect to general cleanliness and food preparation and also within the group with respect to personal hygiene. All foods are well cooked and vegetables are treated by potassium permanganate or iodine. Boiled water is served for drinking. Antiseptic soaps and potassium or iodine treated water are provided for washing. Special dietary requirements can always be catered for.

Administration team from office carry out all necessary logistics, such as getting climbing permit, help you get your expeditions goods thru Nepal custom, arrange local transfers, book hotels, flight etc.

We allocate best climbing guide and assistants who have proven record in climbing high Himalayas, they speak reasonable amount of English, good enough to communicate with you on any mater.

Climbing seasons
Climbing can be done through out the year but later part of spring and September thru November are more popular as weather and snow conditions are more stable and predictable. Winter climb is also getting popular among discerning climbers as snow conditions at this time gets relatively stable.

Environmental Consideration
At Alliance Trek, we are extremely environmentally conscious and aim to minimize our impact as much as possible. As deforestation is one of greatest environmental threats, we do not have camp fires and use kerosene or LPG for cooking as an alternative fuel to wood. We also discourage trekkers/climbers from using wood-fuelled hot showers in lodges along the way. Our staff members are well motivated towards Eco-friendly practices. We bring back all our garbage from mountains, apart from that which can be safely and easily burnt at the campsite.

Medical supply / safety measures
You will need to get your own local medical advice about suitable inoculations and any prophylactics before departure. The major health concern is altitude related illness or Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). All our high altitude treks/climbs are equipped with life saving equipments like Gammov Bag, Oxygen and a set of Medical kit as suggested in Dr. Jim Duff's list of medicine for trekkers. Since our staffs/guides are not qualified for suggesting medications to western clients (in local guide assisted service), we would request you to use the medicines upon your own risk for your comfort, a printed verse of the standard manual stating the use of included medicines are made available in the medical kit. Principally it is safe and reliable if you have your own list of medicines supplied and so not depend on what we have.

Rescue/ Emergency Evacuation
In the case of a serious sickness or a casualty, which we believe will not happen; you shall be rescued by a helicopter. Since you are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation please make sure that it is covered by your insurance before assigning for it or be prepared to pay on your own after getting back in Kathmandu. Ask your guide to arrange a runner to the nearest communication point and inform office about requirement of a helicopter. While asking for the helicopter, you are required to send name of the sick person and exact location from where helicopter can airlift you. Do not leave the place although you are getting better once you have ordered Helicopter.

Insurance
Your insurance is not included in our trek cost. We insure all our staff. Please ensure that you arrange your own insurance for emergency evacuation, personal effects, personal accident, medical travel expenses, baggage, cancellation etc.

Cost of the Trips
Cost and its inclusions and exclusions for our 'fixed group departure' trips are mentioned in each trip dossier. However, cost for private trip is fixed on the basis of group size, climbing fee as levied by government and service options as tailored to suit your requirement. You are required to outline your requirement and we make a confidential quote to you.

Meeting and airport transfers
Once you have decided to book any trip with us, you have to send us your flight details (name of Airlines arrival time and date). One of our Airport representatives and driver meet and greet you at the airport and drive you to your preferred hotel. After your trip is over you will be transferred back to the airport in time to catch your flight back home.

Accommodation in Kathmandu
In our fixed departure trips 5 nights accommodation is included at a conveniently located 3 star hotel in Kathmandu. If you are a private team with specific requirement we have specially negotiated rates a range of hotels, we can offer the best deal to suit your every budget and preference. For further booking your hotel accommodation in Kathmandu, you may email to us in the given address.

Booking/Payment/ Disclaimer
For booking procedure, payment option and disclaimer please see our 'COMPANY POLICY"

Filming expedition
If you are planning on making a film of your Expedition, it is necessary to acquire a number of permits& authorizations. Here I have comprehensively outlined procedures to ensure a trouble free making films during Expeditions. Generally, film making of an Expedition is considered as a documentary and there is no Fee levied for it however, Rs, 10,000 has to be paid as Sensor Fee. You can apply for making a film of the Expedition with following documents:

01. Filled Application form
02. Synopsis or script of the film
03. Bio Data of the members
04. Copy of Passports of each members
05. List of equipments to be imported for filming
06. Authorization letter to Alliance Trek

Upon receiving above documents, Alliance Treks shall process permission and acquire it before arrival of the Expedition.

Communication equipments
Communication equipments like Sat Phones, VHF sets, Walki Talkis, etc are quite often used in Expeditions. All these equipments require permits to be imported and used within the territory of Nepal. So, please follow following procedures to ensure that you are importing/using above equipments in a legal way. Following documents are required to make permit for communication equipments:

01. Filled Application Form (Down Load)
02. Specification of equipments

Once acquiring above papers, Alliance Treks shall start the processing and get it approved. After approval, you are required to pay following fees for importing/using different communication equipments:

01. Walki Talkis up to 4 pcs - Rs. 800 per piece
02. Walki Talis above 4 pcs - Rs. 2000 per piece
03. Base Station - Rs. 8000 per piece
04. Sat Phone (Iridium) - Rs. 1,20,000
05. Sat Phone (Inmarsat) - Rs. 1,60,000

Since there are lots of Sat Phones (GSM system) available in Kathmandu these days, you can either buy or rent one in Kathmandu for the use of your Expedition. Alliance Treks provides such Sat Phones on rent for US $ 10 per day but you have to pay separately for the call time. Price for Call time had had been Rs. 5000 per 100 units in Spring 2006 which is good for talking around 100 minutes to Europe and America. This is just a tentative suggestion and you are requested to check with Alliance Trek for the fresh price of rent and call charges.

Garbage management
The new amendment of Mountaineering Expedition Regulation, 2002 specifies certain terms and conditions to ensure that all your Expedition garbage is managed property according to norms and for this, you need to keep a deposit before leaving for the Expedition. Following deposit is applicable as a security against management of garbage which is refundable after expedition once you complete formalities ensuring proper disposal of your Expedition garbage:

Mt. Everest: US $ 4000
All 8000m Peaks: US $ 3000
All 7000m Peaks and Mt. Amadablam: US $ 2000
Peaks above 6500m: US $ 1000
Peaks below 6500m: US $ 500

PS: For mountains below 800m lying in the ranges other than Khumbu and Annapurna, garbage deposit shall be only US $ 500 as a special privilege

The materials to be considered as garbage can be obtained from schedule-10 (Down Load)

Deposit amount can be recovered after satisfying all the norms of garbage management as mentioned in Rule No. 27 of the Regulation (Down Load). As mentioned on the rule, garbage falling in the grade of 'Recyclable' can be deposited at SPCP office in Namche for Expeditions going to Khumbu and in Kathmandu in the office of Solid Waste Management for areas other than Khumbu.

Once you receive the certificate from these authorities against your garbage delivery and a statement from the Liaison officer stating about the management of your destroyable garbage, you are eligible to recover the garbage deposit. Although it looks very bureaucratic, pls. don't panic, Alliance Trek is there to work for you and you do not need to take any extra burden, you shall handle everything for you within the package.

Import/Export of expedition goods

IMPORT
Organization of a Mountaineering Expedition is definitely a big mission and in this, not everything required could travel together with you as an accompanying baggage. At times, there will be necessity to send your extra baggage, equipments, food stuffs and other materials through a special cargo either by Sea or Air. As your handling Agent, Alliance Trek shall be happy to assist you and handle the import of such cargo containing Expedition stuffs. To make your cargo clearance easier and trouble free, it is important that prepare your documents properly according to the norms of Nepalese government. So, we suggest you to follow following points while making the document.

01. Packing List
Please prepare packing list of Consumable and Re-exportable items separately. Items that are consumed during the Expedition like food material, medicines, gas, etc comes under 'Consumable Items'. Items that are re-exported back to your country falls into this category like Tents, Equipments, Clothing items, etc. Separate lists should be prepared for 'Consumable' and 'Re-exportable' items mentioning their Individual & Total value. Please down load a sample list of 'Consumable' & 'Re-exportable' items coming as Expedition goods to the Kingdom of Nepal.

02. Name of Consignee
On the 'Name of Consignee' section of your Air Way Bill, please mention the name of your Expedition under which you are issuing the permit of your Expedition. Under the name, our company name should follow as below:

Name of Consignee: ABC Expedition Team
C/O Alliance Trek & Expedition (P.) Ltd.
Chhetrapati, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
P.O.B. 5270.
Phone: 00977 1 4226667, 4220317, 4220130.
Fax: 00977 1 4231516.
E-mail: info@gototrek.com, kul@gototrek.com

03. Final Permit
Before applying for recommendation with Ministry of Tourism to clear the cargo, it is necessary that you should have acquired the final permit. So, we suggest you to send final Royalty amount well before dispatching your Cargo.

04. Customs and duties.
According to regulations of Nepal government, you need to pay taxes like Customs, Vat, etc on goods imported for Expedition's use. These are non refundable in case of Consumable and refundable in the case of Re-exportable items. Total charges of Tax comes something close to 25% of the CIF value is paid at the time of clearing it through customs. In case of Re-exportable goods, your tax is refunded once the goods exported are verified and deposited at the Custom's Ware House.

Although it is mentioned 25% as Tax amount, there are number of hidden costs which is very difficult to explain. So, you are advised to spare around 30% of the goods value for the clearance of your Expedition goods.

EXPORT
Anything that you need to export back to your country after completion of Expedition, we shall assist you in doing so. You can either dispatch it before leaving Kathmandu or leave it with us which we could send to your address later on. Price of the cargo varies upon which destination you are sending and what quantity of cargo we have. Please check with Alliance Trek staff for any information in this regard.

PS: Please note that you need to acquire the filming and communication permits to import/export stuffs related to filming and communication. Please refer to information on Filming or communication section for the process related to acquiring of the permits.

Baggage allowance & ferry charge
Unlike in Trekking and other cultural tours, Expedition Teams usually have extra baggage to be carried up to the Base Camp and back after completion of the Expedition. Usually, package price provided on per person basis provide baggage allowance up to 20-25 Kg which is usually enough for personal baggage only. Beside this, Alliance Trek shall offer a package price for the baggage that exceeds your regular baggage allowance. Please check with us for extra baggage cost for the base camp of your choice.

Summit bonus
In Mountaineering Expeditions, It is the traditional way of rewarding your Sherpa Staffs for their hard work in helping members reach up to the summit of a peak. Although the name 'Summit Bonus' sounds like you need to pay it after making a successful ascent only, in some Expeditions, it is also paid to Sherpa staffs against each bag carried from the BC to higher camps. So, the system of Summit Bonus is different in Expeditions. For your reference, here are Two examples of summit bonus distribution

Example I (PH Everest Expedition 2006 spring)

Summit Sherpas: US $ 750 each included Summit Bonus and Load Carrying Bonus
Non Summit Sherpas: US $ 300 and above included Load Carrying Bonus and other job

Example II (Reserving a climbing sherpa)

Referring to the growing number of Mountaineering Expeditions in Nepal and Tibet Himalaya each year, of course, there is always the scarcity of good, qualified and experienced Sherpa staffs. So, we suggest you to book your Sherpa staffs well in advance, at least a year before, if possible. Alliance Trek shall help you to select and book the best lot of Sherpa staffs with good past record and experience on the peak that you are climbing.

Ice fall route (everest & lhotse only)
If you are planning to climb Mt. Everest from the South side and Lhotse from North using Ice fall route, it is necessary to pay a set fee against each member and Sherpa staffs for using the route across Ice Fall which is already prepared by some one else.

Liaison officer
Every Expedition team climbing a peak over 6500m is subject to take a Liaison officer with them assigned by the Ministry of culture, tourism and civil aviation. These Liaison officers are supposed to go along with the Expedition Team up to Base Camp and stay through out. Activities of the Expedition Team is monitored by the Liaison officer who is also responsible for dispatching reports of Expedition's progress to the Ministry and also help the team for local coordination. Expedition team has to provide a full set of equipments as well as a daily allowance of Rs. 500 per day to the Liaison officer. The Team should also insure the Liaison officer against his accident and rescue evacuation.

Whatever is mentioned in the rules, it has been the tradition that Liaison officers prefer to receive their privileged for equipments and Salary in terms of a cash package. Ongoing amount for Liaison officer's package has been US $ 2500 to US$ 3000 in average. You are requested to check with Alliance Trek for the latest going rate of LO's package.

Multiple permits
You can of course, receive permits for more than one peak at the same season. For receiving multiple permits, you need to pay separate Royalties for the peaks being permitted and also, separate Liaison officers for each peak assigned.

Expedition briefing
Before departure of the Expedition, Expedition teams are required to present themselves at the Ministry for briefing. Your Liaison officer shall be introduced during the time of briefing. Leader of the Expedition can present at the Ministry for briefing and during his absence, Co-leader or a member of the time should present with a 'Power of Attorney' signed by the leader. Several forms need to be filled and submitted at the time of briefing which are as follows:

01. Insurance will form of the Nepalese Staffs - Schedule 7 (by Alliance Trek)
02. Contract Form between the Team, Company and Staffs - Schedule 8

Debriefing
After completion of the Expedition, Leader of the Expedition Team has to again present himself at the ministry for De-briefing along with the Liaison officer. Expedition Report form - Schedule 8 has to be submitted at the Ministry during de-briefing.

Changing of members
If you have already received the preliminary permit, you have to report to the ministry at least 10 days before receiving the final permit if there is any change of members. Please send a copy of the new member's bio-date form to Alliance Trek for this.

Support group
While you are engaged in climbing of a mountain, it is possible that groups of people including your friends, families, etc. would like to make a Trek up to the Base Camp to visit and cheer your efforts. You could negotiate with Alliance Trek for a special package to organize Support Treks for such groups.

 

 
 
Nepal Tourism Board (NTB) Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Trekking Agent Association of Nepal (TAAN) Nepal Government Nepal Government NAATA
 
 

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